The South West Coast Path isn’t just a physical journey of steep valleys and sweeping ocean views; it is a 630-mile song line through the ancient Kingdom of Dumnonia. Today, we are walking the path of the page, moving from the craggy heights of North Devon down to the very edge of West Cornwall. At each stop, we’ll uncover the ancient stories that emanate from the landscape, and the “echoes” you can still feel beneath your boots today.
The Devil’s Sunday Best Location: The Valley of Rocks, North Devon
The Story: A dry, dramatic valley sits perched on the cliffs west of Lynton. Local legend claims that a group of Druids were once having a riotous time here, dancing and making merry on a Sunday. The Devil himself appeared amongst them to punish their revelry, instantly turning the dancers into stone.
The Echo: As you leave the tarmac path and walk the grassy trail into the Valley of Rocks, you are surrounded by towering, bizarre rock formations. Looking at the craggy tor known as ‘Rugged Jack’, it isn’t hard to imagine the petrified figures of the dancers. You might also hear the rustle of the valley’s feral goats, a herd that has roamed these cliffs since the Domesday Book.
The Giant’s Shortcut Location: Carnewas at Bedruthan, North Cornwall
The Story: A towering giant named Bedruthan is said to have roamed this stretch of the coast. To save himself a long walk, he allegedly used the massive, sheer rock stacks rising out of the sand as stepping stones to take a shortcut across the bay.
The Echo: The constant pounding of the sea on the softer rock has left these magnificent, hard rock islets standing tall against the crashing waves. When you look out over the cliff edge today, the sheer scale of the sea stacks makes the idea of a giant striding across them perfectly believable.
The Magic of the King Location: Tintagel Castle, North Cornwall
The Story: In the 12th century, the writer Geoffrey of Monmouth named this jagged, projecting headland as the place where the legendary King Arthur was conceived, aided by the magical enchantments of Merlin. These powerful legends of Arthur, along with the tragic romance of Tristan and Iseult, inspired the fabulously wealthy Richard, Earl of Cornwall, to build a castle here in the 1230s, despite the location having absolutely no military value.
The Echo: Today, you walk where history and legend are inseparable. Looking over from the Path or crossing over to the island ruins, the echo is one of profound, heavy stillness and ancient energy. Standing among the medieval battlements and looking out over the Atlantic, the enduring power of Arthurian myth feels completely tangible
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