The hike along the South West Coastal Path from Westward Ho! to Clovelly is a stunning journey that showcases the dramatic landscapes of North Devon. This section of the path offers a mix of coastal views, ascents, descents, and points of interest that highlight the area’s natural beauty and history.

This trip was a spur-of-the-moment decision. I had originally planned to go later in the month, but the weather forecast for that time looked terrible. With a couple of free days and beautiful weather, I decided to go. I stayed at the New Inn at the top of Clovelly. Typically, the only available rooms there have shared bathrooms, but I managed to secure a last-minute booking for a room with an ensuite and a balcony at a price lower than the usual shared bathroom rate! It was a fantastic outcome—probably due to a last‑minute cancellation, booked just at the right time.

Although Stagecoach buses run between Clovelly and Westward Ho!, the schedules didn’t suit me—so I booked Jason’s Taxi service again.

SWCP 8: The Walk

Challenging

20 September 2024

Leaving Westward Ho!

Westward Ho! is a charming seaside village, named after Charles Kingsley’s 1855 novel Westward Ho!. The beach is popular for surfing and is backed by a pebble ridge known as the Burrows, which is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) due to its unique coastal ecosystem.

We started our walk along the seafront of Westward Ho!, where we passed the inscription of Rudyard Kipling’s poem “If” on the pavement.

Down below was the Sea Pool where early swimmers were braving the water. Soon after, we reached Seafield House — known locally as the “Spooky” or “Haunted House”!

Abbotsham Cliffs & Peppercombe

From there, we left the built-up area and gradually ascended along cliff tops. After a brief descent, we climbed again above Abbotsham Cliffs, where we were rewarded with stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. The exposed sandstone here is around 400 million years old, with striking visible strata that tell a story of deep geological time.

After several climbs and descents, we followed a steep path down to Peppercombe, a hidden wooded combe with a coach house tucked away at its base.

Bucks Mills

From there, we ascended steep steps leading up to Worthygate Wood before descending towards Bucks Mills, a picturesque village featuring a small beach and a historic mill. The descent was steep and somewhat slippery due to recent rain.

Bucks Mills is a small historic village of cob cottages and narrow lanes. There’s a heritage centre here, and if you descend to the beach, you’ll find a small waterfall. We were short of time, so we pressed on instead. After briefly exploring the village, we climbed out along another steep ascent through the woods, leading to more open clifftop walking.

Hobby Drive & Into Clovelly

Soon we joined Hobby Drive— a rough wooded track that undulates in and out of combes. The going here was steady rather than steep, with occasional sea views and teasing glimpses of Clovelly ahead. Roxie was entertained, chasing the numerous pheasants that gathered along the way. Eventually, we reached the top of the village.

We didn’t go down to the village since we had already spent time there the previous evening; instead, we headed straight to our car for the drive home.

This historic fishing village is famous for its steep, cobbled streets that descend to the harbour. The village has no vehicular access, preserving its quaint atmosphere. Clovelly is also known for its Clovelly Court Gardens, which feature beautiful terraced gardens and a variety of plant species. Clovelly has a rich maritime history, once being a significant port for the export of goods such as slate and coal. The village is also associated with the Hugh and Mary Weller, who were instrumental in preserving its heritage.

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Walk Summary: Westward Ho! to Clovelly

• Distance: 20.2 km (12.6 miles)
• Elevation gained: 765 m (2,511 ft)
• Difficulty: Challenging – repeated climbs and descents, wooded valleys, uneven ground
• Moving Time: 5:37 hrs | Elapsed Time: 6:05 hrs
• Highlights:
  • Westward Ho! – seaside village backed by the Pebble Ridge
  • Kipling’s Poem – lines from If inscribed along the promenade
  • Seafield House – the “Haunted House” overlooking the sea
  • Abbotsham Cliffs – Devonian sandstone cliffs with ocean views
  • Peppercombe – steep wooded combe with coach house and climb out
  • Worthygate Wood – shaded ascent and descent through woodland
  • Bucks Mills – historic cottages, heritage centre, and beach waterfall
  • Hobby Drive – rough wooded track with glimpses of Clovelly ahead
  • Clovelly – iconic fishing village with cobbled lanes and historic harbour

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