This section from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe was a short but varied stretch of around 9 km (5½ miles). While not quite like the punishing Lynton—Combe Martin stage, this walk was still undulating and scenic, with a mix of wooded valleys, high pasture, windswept cliff tops, and sea-carved rock formations. It also passed through some geologically significant terrain, a former Victorian pleasure resort, and offered superb views across the Bristol Channel and to Lundy.

SWCP 4a: The Walk

Moderate

21 May 2024

After a second night at The Valley of the Rocks Hotel in Lynton, we drove to Ilfracombe. We had planned to get the bus back for the walk to Ilfracombe but, as I had to recover my wallet from Andy anyway, we took a ride with him instead.

It was planned as a shorter walk because the previous day was challenging and we had to drive back to the Midlands. Also, the walk all the way to Woolacombe would have been 14 miles with some difficult sections.

Combe Martin to Broadsands Bay

The route heads west out of Combe Martin, initially following the road partly because the original track is blocked by a building! We soon left the road and rejoined a track closer to the cliffs and followed it around above the small cove, Broadsands Beach.

Watermouth & Hele Bay

A mix of road and field paths led us on past Watermouth Bay with its sheltered marina and inlet.

After a stretch following the cliffs through fields, there is a short climb to a viewpoint above Hele. Back on the road, we descended gently to Hele Bay, a small beach tucked between headlands and overlooked by the hamlet of Hele. It once had a small water mill, and the area’s lime kilns and quarries were active in the 19th century.

Hillsborough – The “Sleeping Elephant”

From here, we began the steep ascent of Hillsborough, a prominent headland known as the “Sleeping Elephant” for its shape. Hillsborough rises to about 115 m (377 feet) and is the site of a prehistoric hillfort, with visible ramparts. It is now a local Nature Reserve. On the way up, and at the summit, there are stunning views over Ilfracombe and beyond.

We actually managed to take the wrong path from near the top and descended around the side of the instead of across the summit! Both paths soon converged again and we walked past Rapparee Cove — once a landing spot for smugglers and the tragic site of the 1796 shipwreck of the London, where human remains believed to be enslaved Africans were discovered in the 1990s. Across the harbour entrance, we could see Damien Hirst’s ‘Verity’ – A striking 20m tall bronze statue of a pregnant woman, sword aloft, guarding the harbour.

Into Ilfracombe

We followed the path round into Ilfracombe Harbour, up to the base of Verity, before following the Coast round Capstone Hill and then above the Tunnel Beaches. Here we left the trail to go back to the Car Park for the drive home.

Ilfracombe is a historic harbour town on the North Devon coast, framed by rugged cliffs and dramatic sea views. Once a popular Victorian resort, it still shows off elegant terraces, gardens, and a bustling harbour watched over by Damien Hirst’s “Verity” sculpture and the old chapel on Lantern Hill. The town blends maritime heritage with a lively cultural scene of galleries, theatre, and fresh seafood, making it both a practical base and a scenic highlight along the South West Coast Path.

Walk Summary: Combe Martin to Ilfracombe

• Distance: 12.8 km (7.9 miles)
• Elevation gained: 401 m (1,316 ft)
• Difficulty: Moderate – a few steep ascents, otherwise undulating coastal walking
• Moving Time: 3:18 hrs | Elapsed Time: 4:09 hrs

• Highlights:
  • Combe Martin Bay – sheltered start with coastal hills ahead
  • Broadsands Bay – picture-postcard cove below high cliffs
  • Watermouth – marina and quiet wooded inlet
  • Hele Bay – small beach with lime kiln and quarry history
  • Hillsborough – 115 m hillfort headland, sweeping views over Ilfracombe
  • Rapparee Cove – smugglers’ haunt and site of the 1796 shipwreck
  • Verity – striking 20 m bronze statue guarding Ilfracombe harbour
  • Ilfracombe Harbour & Theatre – Victorian seafront, marina, and iconic Landmark Theatre finish