Morwenstow to Bude is the second half of the challenging Hartland Quay to Bude stage of the South West Coast Path. This section continues the roller-coaster of steep valleys with three more big descents and climbs before easing into gentler walking across meadows and beaches. The result is a day that begins tough and dramatic but ends with a more relaxed approach into Bude’s surf town atmosphere.
SWCP 10b: The Walk
Challenging: Severe—Moderate
3 April 2025
Click to explore in Google Earth 3D
Setting Out from Morwenstow
After another night at the Old Smithy Inn, Rod the taxi driver returned us to Morwenstow Church, where we’d finished the previous stage. Retracing our steps along the valley edge and rejoining the Path, we soon reached a stone gateway that led down to Hawker’s Hut.
Built by the eccentric Reverend Robert Hawker from driftwood salvaged off the coast, the hut sits perched on the cliff and was once his retreat for writing, smoking opium, and gazing out over the sea. It remains a wonderfully atmospheric spot.
First Descent: Tidna Shute
Not far beyond the hut came our first major dip — the steep descent into Tidna Shute. The path dropped sharply by slate steps before reaching a wooden bridge at the bottom, where Roxie cooled her paws in the stream. The climb out was steady, leading us up to Higher Sharpness Point, past an abandoned Coastguard hut, and along an undulating clifftop above Greenway and Canter beaches.
Second Descent: Stanbury Mouth and GCHQ Bude
The looming dishes of GCHQ Bude grew larger as we pressed on, but first came the descent into Stanbury Mouth. Once notorious as a smugglers’ landing place, it’s another sharp-sided combe, crossed by a small stream. Roxie seized the chance for another paddle before we tackled the climb out.
At the top, the path skirts the edge of GCHQ Bude — 21 huge satellite dishes and antennas dominating the clifftop. Originally called the Composite Signals Organisation Station, it became GCHQ Bude in 2001. It feels a surreal contrast: cutting-edge communications hardware in such a wild coastal setting.
Third Descent: Duckpool
After a slightly boggy walk alongside the site, the Path turned right towards Lower Sharpness Point. Beyond this point, the trail wound through gorse and descended to Steeple Point, offering stunning views to the south. Turning inland, it dropped steeply into Duckpool, the final major valley of the stage. The drop was steep, the beach rocky and dramatic, and we paused here for a short rest — and yet another paddle for Roxie! Climbing back out to Warren Point, we crossed the hanging valley of Warren Gutter, then finally found ourselves on more open, level ground.
From Sandymouth to Bude
The landscape now softened into meadows and sheep pasture. The deep, rocky combes were replaced by broad beaches and a wider horizon. Still, the legs had work to do — rocky stretches remained, and a stream of trail runners breezed past to remind us just how slow we were feeling!
Soon we dropped to Sandymouth Beach, a National Trust property with a welcome café. An ice cream and coffee revived us before the final push.
From there, the last few miles were easier walking but still deceptively long. We passed Crooklets Beach — where Roxie was finally let off the lead for a run — then crossed Summerleaze Beach and followed the river into Bude.
Arrival in Bude
We finished at the Crescent car park, crossing the canal to celebrate with a pasty and a pint at the Brendon Arms. After two days of relentless climbs and deep valleys, the Hartland Quay to Bude stage was complete — one of the hardest but most memorable sections of the entire South West Coast Path.
Walk Summary: Morwenstow to Bude
- Distance: 13.5 km (8.4 miles)
- Elevation Gained: 460 m (1509 ft) — three steep valleys before easier terrain
- Difficulty: Challenging – Severe at first, easing to Moderate near Bude
- Moving Time: 3:55 Elapsed Time: 5:11
- Highlights:
- Hawker’s Hut – driftwood shelter of poet-priest Robert Hawker
- Tidna Shute – first big valley crossing with a small bridge
- Stanbury Mouth – smugglers’ cove and tough climb to GCHQ Bude
- GCHQ Bude – clifftop site with 21 satellite dishes
- Duckpool – rocky cove and third steep descent
- Warren Gutter – hanging valley before easier meadow walking
- Sandymouth Beach – wide National Trust beach with café
- Crooklets & Summerleaze – Bude’s beaches, tidal pool and broad sands
- Bude Canal & Brendon Arms – canal crossing and celebratory pub stop
